Few questions on RADS

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7 years 3 weeks ago - 7 years 3 weeks ago #137127 by Monardo
Few questions on RADS was created by Monardo
Hello

I have been climbing SRT for some (not very long) time using two Jumars and Texas-kick (correct name?). After ascending, I would then do changeover either to F8 or ATC and rappel down. As I wanted to be on safe side I would always use autoblock prussik. All of these worked fine, but the last bit has always been cumbersome and I decided to buy Grigri2 (decisive factor being 20% discount ;) ). The original idea was just to replace F8 with GG2 in above setting.

Only after I brought GG2 home, I realized that I actually had all components for RADS. I tested the setup (low and slow as you all recommend) and quite liked it and therefore I have few questions before I "convert" to it completely (I will be using left hand Jumar as an ascender):

1. Do I need Jumar attached to my harness (with webbing) as a second attachment point for safety? My instinct says yes, but maybe it is too much?

2. Does it matter to which hole of Jumar (top or bottom) I attach carabiner with micropulley? The "instinct" says top hole, but then carabiner goes around the rope and it's more complicated to detach Jumar from rope. If I clip to bottom hole, it will be very easy to remove ascender with everything on it and rappel, but is it safe?

3. In general, is it necessary to have carabiner clipped to the top hole of Jumar as safety measure? Recommendations I read are kind of 50/50 on that.

Sorry for long text.
Last edit: 7 years 3 weeks ago by Monardo.

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7 years 3 weeks ago - 7 years 3 weeks ago #137128 by moss
Replied by moss on topic Few questions on RADS
Great questions!

1. Most instuctors recommend a tether from the ascender to the climber's harness. It guards against accidental descent if the climber accidentally or in a panic pulls the lever on the descender. The ascender is not strictly life support in a RADS or Yoyo system, it is backup to the descender.

2. The pulley connection to the ascender is best at the top hole to maximize vertical progress per stroke.

3. The carabiner positioned in the top hole facilitates the function of the RADS, it is not primarily there to keep the rope from coming out of the ascender cam.

-AJ
Last edit: 7 years 3 weeks ago by moss.

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7 years 3 weeks ago #137129 by Monardo
Replied by Monardo on topic Few questions on RADS
Thank you moss for answers

1. I agree

2. True, I realized this while practicing, the distance was too short between pulley and GriGri

3. The last question was more general. Say I use only two jumars (Texas-kick), do I need two carabiners clipped to top hole as safety?

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7 years 3 weeks ago - 7 years 3 weeks ago #137136 by moss
Replied by moss on topic Few questions on RADS
When I'm climbing a Texas system I like a carabiner in the upper attachment on my upper Petzl Ascencion ascender. But I position it differently than expected:



Reason is I like to position one hand in the handle and the other wrapped over the top of the ascender. The carabiner prevents me from accidentally thumbing the cam when I'm pushing the ascender up. With modern cammed ascenders it's very difficult if not impossible to get the rope to accidentally come off the ascender. The only scenario that is creating that potential is when the rope is set horizontal and the ascender is loaded vertically. Not a good idea. There's nothing wrong with putting a carabiner in the top hole but the safety enhancement is more psychological than actual. I've never seen or heard of a rope coming out of a good quality modern cammed ascender during vertical ascent.
-AJ
Last edit: 7 years 3 weeks ago by moss.

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7 years 2 weeks ago #137137 by Monardo
Replied by Monardo on topic Few questions on RADS
Thank you moss

That is exactly what I thought.

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