Using a Distel hitch in place of Blakes hitch DRT

[img/] Using DRT, I have been using a distel hitch with the free end secured by a prusik knot back to the caribiner at anchor point, in place of a Blakes hitch. A clove hitch connects the standing line to the anchor Caribiner. This keeps the knot at eye height.
Rope is 7/16 Velocity Cool. Prusik Cord is 6mm. Has anyone experience wit this setup ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzV9qvDmi6A[img]

That works. Not sure the benefit over a Blakes, since it is more complex than simply tying a Blakes. If it performs better than a Blakes and you find it worth the extra system complexity then more power to you.

Checked out your video, some free advice for you When you're standing up on your footloops, grab the running end (or "down rope") with both hands. When you grab the standing end or up rope with your left hand you're fighting against your right hand and feet pulling on the down rope.

If you feel it's not stable enough for you with both hands on the down rope below the hitch try this in your climbing motion:

Grab the down rope with your right hand below the hitch, as you start to stand up reach up with your left hand well above the hitch, now go ahead and extend your legs. You won't get full extension yet. With a firm grip on the rope with your right hand below the hitch slide your left hand further up the rope, grab, then slide the hitch up and fully extend your legs to complete the cycle. Take your left hand off the rope and sit back and relax and repeat the cycle.

The key safety protocol to the technique described is to always have one hand on the rope below the hitch and use that hand to move the hitch up. This is an alternative to always keeping both hands on the rope below the hitch (the standard method).
-AJ

The Blake's hitch is not working Well for me on my 11 mm rope.

Thanks for the technique advice. I saw that comment on a previous post, and have been using the one above and one below grip. Works great.

Since my video, I spliced a 5" eye in the end of my rope. This allows me to eliminate the prusik cord. I tie the Distel first then the clove hitch to the carabiner with the eye between the turns of the clove hitch. When setting the hitch I equalize the tension on the legs of the distel hitch by adjusting the clove hitch.

I Have tried several closed hitches; Schwabish, Distel, Knut, and Michoacan(Martin'). The 4 turn Michoacan seems to work best for me on this 11mm Velocity Cool rope by Samson.

Picture of Michoacan on eye below.

How are you tying the Blakes? Are you doing a 4 coil tuck 2 and out (4/2) or a 5 coil tuck 3 and out (5/3)?

Surprised it's not working for you. Can you describe how it's not working? For example is the hitch too tight, too lose (won't hold) or something else?
-AJ

Tying both 4 tuck 2 and. 5 tuck 2, Blake's hitches are very tight hard to release for descent.

I am 155 Lbs. testing is with line running over a carabiner .

In tree I am using a leather friction saver.

wrpiper wrote:

Tying both 4 tuck 2 and. 5 tuck 2, Blake's hitches are very tight hard to release for descent.

I am 155 Lbs. testing is with line running over a carabiner .

In tree I am using a leather friction saver.

Ok, just for the heck of it try a 5/3 instead of 5/2.

I think I know what the problem is. Velocity has a sticky wax surface added to the strands to make the thin rope easier to grab for climbers used to climbing on 13mm. The wax layer wears off eventually but it may be causing your Blakes to seize up now. Try the Blakes 5/3 and don't set the hitch super tight. That might work for you.
-AJ

Thank you.

I tried some 5 wrap 3 tuck and it releases alittle better. The decent is rather slow.
However, advancing the hitch up is stiff.

I think the diameter is most of the problem. I just got some Vortex 1/2" and the standard hitches 4/2 and 5/2 work great.

Wrpiper, welcome aboard. The Blakes tightens up as you weight it. Nature of the beast. But that's better than the nasty habit of rolling out on its own like the tautline does. I go 190# and I like the B-53. After the initial tug, it decends just fine. Even the 7year olds at my facilitated events have to give it a good yank to start down. Keep working with your system and you'll get it dialed in.

By the way, I'm in Williamsport. If you're ever in the area give me a jingle. 570-932-0546. I know some great trees we can say hello to.

Ron

Thanks for the support and invite.

Now that I have a. 1/2" Vortex , it will be my DRT mainstay. I like the simplicity of the Blake's Hitch and minimal hardware. I have mastered single foot locking so no other gear is needed.

I went to a split tail 8mm beeline this works good on the 11 mm velocity, using B-4/2 and better with B-5/2.
The diameter ratios control friction.

This is compared to my SRT set up.

For the 11mm Velocity: I am climbing with a Rope Wrench above hitch climber pulley using Michoacan friction hitch. Assent is with left CMI foot assender and Petzl Asscender on foot loop at knee. Bungee goes from loop on belt in back over shoulder to knee. 1" tubular webbing is used for a chest harness and a carabiner connected to the center hole of the hitch climber pulley tends the slack. This works like a dream. Fast up quick release and smooth descent. However, a lot of hardware is needed.

I began with a tail end Blakes. Rec climbed lots like that. I graduated to a eue2eye cord and now use a Michoacan/Martin because is almost identical to the blakes. Already had full instinct to tie blakes.

Kinda playing with distel and some others a bit when I get a chance.