Simple SRT technique on white pine

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13 years 4 months ago #135185 by moss
Some video from solo climbing last weekend. Revisiting a simple SRT technique where a handled ascender and hitch are used to ascend. The climbing rope is a cinched 150' 11.5mm Tachyon, once I reach the TIP the hitch is already on the rope, I lanyard in and start climbing DRT.

When an ascender is above the hitch the system must be configured so that when the hitch is fully loaded the top of the hitch does not come anywhere near contacting the bottom of the ascender.

Using a Croll as a second ascender attached low on the harness is more efficient than using a hitch because the Croll holds the climber more upright and focuses power more on the legs than the arms but this technique is fine for ascents up into the 100' range. Much higher than that and it'll make you suffer compared to more efficient SRT techniques that focus power on your legs.



-AJ

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13 years 4 months ago - 13 years 4 months ago #135192 by greenluck
Replied by greenluck on topic Re:Simple SRT technique on white pine
Questions

The beeline cord you are using with the core stripped out:

1. Is this an approved splicing method by the manufacturer?

2. The cord is the same diameter as the original cord with core, even in the center?

3. Same density feel also, or does the modified cord seem mushy?

4. So 2 beeline covers combined are rated for life support? One is not?

5. Can you use this method of cover-only-splice on any other cords?

6. What is the cover from 8mm bee rated for?
Last edit: 13 years 4 months ago by greenluck.

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13 years 4 months ago #135194 by greenluck
Replied by greenluck on topic Re:Simple SRT technique on white pine
7. Do the 2 girth hitches on the webbing reduce the strength of the webbing at all.

8. Could you use Spectra instead of the nylon webbing?

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13 years 4 months ago #135198 by moss
Replied by moss on topic Re:Simple SRT technique on white pine
greenluck wrote:

Questions

The beeline cord you are using with the core stripped out:

1. Is this an approved splicing method by the manufacturer?

2. The cord is the same diameter as the original cord with core, even in the center?

3. Same density feel also, or does the modified cord seem mushy?

4. So 2 beeline covers combined are rated for life support? One is not?

5. Can you use this method of cover-only-splice on any other cords?

6. What is the cover from 8mm bee rated for?


1. No, it's an experimental splice. A sample splice was break tested by Yale, I believe it broke in the mid 4k lbs force so using it as an e2e it's more than 8000 lb. worth of life support

2 & 3. Yes, same diameter, firm and round, even diameter and feel the full length. Not mushy at all.

4. Tricky question, see answer 1

5. I have no idea

-AJ

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13 years 4 months ago - 13 years 4 months ago #135199 by moss
Replied by moss on topic Re:Simple SRT technique on white pine
greenluck wrote:

7. Do the 2 girth hitches on the webbing reduce the strength of the webbing at all.

8. Could you use Spectra instead of the nylon webbing?


7. Yes, although it is not cumulative, whatever the percentage strength reduction it's the same whether girthed on one end or both ends. For noise reduction, slop reduction, efficiency and simplicity of systems I prefer to reduce hardware (carabiners etc.) for ascender connections. 24kn nylon sling, nylon absorbs shock much better than Dynema or Spectra for the same load. If I remember correctly the Petzl Ascencsion ascender is only rated to 5 or 6 kn., after that it usually strips the cover off a static rope. I always have a backup to the ascender, two life support attachments to the rope. Also remember that that overall strategy in SRT climbing is not to shock load the system, I assess TIPs and climb with that in mind.

8. As mentioned in 7 the high strength synthetic fibers don't do well on shock loading tests compared to nylon. I do use them though for other applications. I like that there is more material in nylon slings per strength rating, more fiber to wear through before failure.

All good questions!

-AJ
Last edit: 13 years 4 months ago by moss.

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