Setting up a Tyrolean anchor?

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18 years 5 months ago - 18 years 5 months ago #126348 by mateo12
Setting up a Tyrolean anchor? was created by mateo12
Does anyone have a recommendation for this type of setup? Is there a bad way to do it, or a "proper" way? Just curious, I'd like to see what you guys are rigging up. I've done running bowlines, but that's about it. I was thinking about doing some webbing with a basket hitch, I wasn't sure if one 'biner would take the weight though. Anyways, let me know how you guys do it!

mateo

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18 years 5 months ago - 18 years 5 months ago #126349 by leon123
Replied by leon123 on topic Setting up a Tyrolean anchor?
I've never set up a Tyrolean before, but perhats this might help. From On Rope.

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18 years 5 months ago - 18 years 5 months ago #126350 by rocknroll
Replied by rocknroll on topic Tyrolean Anchor
Here is one used for rock.
http://climbing.com/news/fixedblack04/
when you do be careful of the stress on the anchor. It can mulitply FAST!!!!
another
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Traverse.htm

and one more
http://www.chetwynd.info/other/tyrolean.htm

also consider more than one rope. it will help equalize the stress on the rope and anchors.

Psithurism - the sound of the wind rustling the leaves.

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18 years 5 months ago - 18 years 5 months ago #126357 by icabod
Replied by icabod on topic ADVICE
Me and Saplin' set up a tyrolean for a team of adventure racers that needed the practice for a race. Here are my recomendations.

1. Fritionless anchor on one end. We used 4 wraps (though Leon's pic shows no more than 2! Mine didn't) and connected back to the working end with a figgure-8 follow through, with several backups.
2. Adjustable anchor on the other end. This is something that I wish we'd done. Sag the line until it touches the ground if loaded. From there tie a set of friction hitches, I'd use a three wrap prussic, one a little longer than the other to divide the the load between two cords (the load is dynamic, thus much larger). The reason I have for this is that an individual becomes incapacitated on line it can be very dangerous to effect a rescue, forcing double loading the line. With this setup, in the event of an accident, the tensioned line could be (by use of a descent control device, I'd reccomend a 5 or 6 bar rack) lowered by releasing the hold of the friction hitches at the adjustable anchor end.
3. Adjust the tension (by pulling line through the prussics in #2) on the line so that it has a decent amoung of sag in the system. On Rope has suggestions for the sag, if I remember correctly, I think 11-20% (PLEASE CHECK ME ON THIS)
4. Provide the person traversing with a set of prussics or ascenders (rigged to prevent lateral loading, VERY IMPORTANT!) From start to center is a quick easy trip. From center to landing is a whole different ballpark.
5. Utilize a spidered tag line system. This seems like overkill until the person on line cant make the traverse. I would setup a system to retrieve from both ends of the rigged line.

I like redunduant systems anytime you do something like this. Better safe than sorry.

Hope that helps, oh! Watch out for bad weather too!

Climb Safe!
Icabod

Cam "Icabod" Taylor

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