? Clove hitch for tie in

Hope I don't start another war.

Has anyone (else) gone to using a clove hitch for tie in with DRT? I started using it this year and really like it. First, I have more slide for each stroke as my bridge starts at my screwlink rather than 3 or more inches above it. Second, I can easily adjust the bridge length depending on the size of the climber (for program climbs). Third, it is much faster to tie and untie. Fourth, I was worried it might slip, but once loaded, it has never slipped and is backed up by the blakes' hitch anyway.

It is an acceptable tie in knot according to Jepson. I tie my blake's, size my bridge, then tie the clove and stick a 'biner through it.

Bob
Tree Climbing for all!
www.arborquest.org

If I tie directly to a biner with a traditional, non-split tail system, I prefer to use an anchor bend. The rope exits with a more fair lay. It is directed straight to the climbing hitch. Using a clove hitch has the rope exiting, then making a ninety degree bend to line up with the hitch. This seems to put a little twist into the tie-in.

Don't get me wrong, the clove works and is acceptable. Just my preference.

Tom

I just went and looked at the Anchor Bend. I see what you mean about how smoothly it lays.

It doesn't look as though this can be tied in the middle of a rope. That is, the free end of the rope must pass through the loop. Is this true? I like to tie the blake's first then use the clove to set the bridge length. Can this be done with this knot?

Bob

When I use a trad system I've never thought of tying the friction hitch and then the clove/anchor. Novel idea...hmmmm

It seems a bit awkward at first blush. Why not just tie the anchor/clove and adjust the bridge length as you tie the friction hitch?

You do need the end to tie the anchor bend.

Tom