Who's using retrievable redirect tools now? Anyone using the Lockjack redirect?

This is a new tool (made by the German Lockjack folks) which makes it possible to redirect your rope anchor placement making more parts of the tree easily atainable without having to go back up to get the rope redirect restationed, as in a branch crotch, or get your redrect false crotch back, as in a webbing sling and a carabiner.

Wow, peter, I haven't seen that one yet. How does it work? How do you retrieve it?

I am currently "working on" a Retrievable redirect (RR). There is a adjustable sling (whoopie) with a sailing snap-shackle in the spliced eye. I put a large carabiner in the adjustable eye. You adjust it to the size you want, throw the carabiner around the branch then clip the shackle to the 'biner. When ready, pull a throwline connected to the shackle, opening the gate on the shackle, allowing the hole works to slide back down to where you are.

I have not used it yet (just made it this week) and there are still some kinks to work out (the shackle I bought requires a pull from a limited range of angles to allow it to open. The pin must be pulled straight out, so a direct sideways pull won't open it. There is another shackle that will remedy it, but it's like 80.00 and I can't spring for that at the moment!)....And a few other little problems, but I am going to try it out this weekend to see how it works. It looks fine. It will hopefully bring an end to having to climb back up just to bring down the redirect.

I've heard of other systems, but have yet to see another person use one successfully. I'd like to hear more about the Lockjack version!

love
nick

You're right, Dan. That snap shackle can pop right open if a twig or something were to pull that little wire ring.

However, since this is not for my primary tie in point, a failure would not result in a fall, but more likely a (painful) swing. If I keep the dangers into account, I can minimize the risks. By putting the sling somewhere where there are no little twigs to get in and cause trouble, there's less chance of it opening. I also have to make sure that the pull-line is not in reach of any courious people on the ground!

Yes, the two ring method is doable, but retrieval involves removal of the climbing line from your primary tie in point (TIP).

So knowing that there is value in the retrievable redirect, and seeing that my system has some flaws, what ideas can anyone else offer that might make this system better? Or how about a different system?

love
nick

I tried out the retrievable redirect with the snap-shackle today. It worked quite nicely. I saw that it is super-crucial if the snap shackle is going over the branch or under it. I had it going over the branch, with the pull-line (a spectra throwline made by Yale Cordage) going behind it.

When it came time to retrieve, I pulled and it popped right off. It slid right down to me. I'd like to use it in a few more trees before I'm totally comfortable with it.

I'll keep you all updated!

love
nick

When I climb on a trad or DdRT system I use the Rope Guide. It is a nice tool but the cost/performance ratio is high. Every climber has to decide for themselves what to spend for ultimate performance.

You can look at the Rope Guide on Fresco's site:

http://www.frescoarborist.com/


Tom

That's a super RR! I've used it myself. Safe (though the Fixe is "only" rated for 22kn. I'd reccomend the mini pulley by CMI, rated for 7000lb)

So do you have one that you can retrieve while in the tree without losing your original TIP way at the top of the tree?

love
nick

I thought that I posted a note about Mark Chisholm's "M" redi.

After you rig this, your rope will look like a capital "M"

The left leg attaches to your saddle. Then the rope goes up and through your first FC. Then it comes back to your saddle where you can clip it through a biner or better to use a small pulley. Then the rope goes up to the second FC, back to your saddle where you attach your friction hitch. Does that make sense?

You only need one friction hitch and you'll stay in place pretty well. At first, I thought that I would swing to center and all rope legs would be equal. Not the case.

There are lots of variations on this setup. With a little careful thought you'll never be without control over both ends of the rope or any FCs.

Tom

Ox, correct me if I'm wrong, but if your second tie-in is a natural crotch, then you won't have to return to it, right?

love
nick

If the M redirect is rigged carefully, it can be retrieved remotely. It does take care and attention though.


The route of the rope through the big and little ends of the redi must be noted. Then, when pulling the redi back, make double certain where the big and little ends are.
Tom

Tom, is there a trick we should know. From Ox's picture, it looks straight forward.

Let's assuem the 'biner hanging on the right is your original tie in point. You climb over to the new one, flipline in, unclip the spliced end of your climbing line, throw it over the new crotch, reclip the spliced end back to your saddle, then put the pulley on the on the middle of the rope between the two tie in points and clip that to your saddle.

Go do what you gotta do, then when your ready to go back to your original tie in point, just unclip the spliced end and pull it's opposing side so the splice is brought around the branch and back to you. Clip it back on, get the pulley off and put it away.

Does this sound about right, or is there a catch....something I'm not seeing.

love
nick