Microcender question

I use one of these for my lanyard. I read somewhere that you should replace the pin with some type of bolt. Is this really necessary? And if so with what kind of bolt? Seems like messing with it could cause more risk than it’s worth.

Why do you want to replace the pin with an untested bolt?
I rather use the gear as originally designed by the manufacturer and use it in the proper location and condition. If you want to permannety attach the microcender to your lanyard that may be Ok but in that case a regular gibbs ascender would do the job instead.
Sherril actually sells the pin when you buy the microccender. so I stand corrected see page 35 Catalog Item 15200.

Dean wrote:

I read somewhere that you should replace the pin with some type of bolt.

\"Tree Climber's Companion\" pages 13 and 38.

Hey, you're right!

oldtimer wrote:

Sherril actually sells the pin when you buy the microccender. so I stand corrected see page 35 Catalog Item 15200.

Sweet. I just emailed Sherrill to see what the part number is for just the lock nut and bolt. Thanks everyone, I think we can close this thread

Dean wrote:



If the small bungee cord remains attached then what holds the large pin in? It pulls out on this side? Is it threaded into the shell?

Dave, You forgot to add (If the Microcender or Gibbs is used on a \"lanyard\" adjuster) it is a good idea to replace the pin with a permanent bolt. (pages 13 and 38) Otherwise it works just fine with the removable pin. I am glad that you are reading to book and paying attention to the details. They are there to make the climber safer on his/her work.

cord remains attached then what holds the large pin in?

It is a pretty ingenious set up. In the Gibbs there is a small bottom you push and a it allows the pin to be removed out of the body of the piece of gear. On the Microcender is a little different (I do not own one so I stop giving opinions on it!)

Happy Climbing!

When you replace the pivot pin with a nut and bolt, neither of the pins are used. Same goes for the accessory cord. Remove them all. Doing this makes for a nice clean system. The only drawback, if you can call it that, is that you must thread the rope through the microcender rather than clamp it around the rope. No biggie if you ask me.



The allen wrenches are used to loosen the set screws that hold the spring cable and the accessory cord in place.

FYI, I emailed Sherrill :

Dean,
The item # is 28462 (bolt) and # 28463(nut) for .60 cents...
Thanks,
Danny

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Hey thanks. I don't see those item numbers when searching www.sherrilltree.com under the items section. Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Dean

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Dean,
They are not internet enabled. If you would put them in the comment section of your order just before check-out!
Thanks,
Danny

So I'm wondering, you would choose one of these gizmos for a lanyard over a prusik because they are easier to adjust with one hand?

That's part of it. It's simple and compact. You can make your lanyard shorter with a quick tug on the rope behind the microcender, or you can lengthen it with one hand by applying rear pressure with your hips and compressing the cam with your hand (assuming the lanyard is already around the tree). One less knot you have to deal with.

Using a bolt with a nylock nut or locktited nut instead of the spring pin for a lanyard isn't a bad idea. The requirement comes from the Z133 for pro climbers.

When the cable tether wears and breaks the best replacement is to use a small diameter weed whipper line. Each end will need to be shaved down just a teenie bit to slip into the orifice. My replacement has been working for years and shows no sign of breaking.

For a lanyard adjuster I prefer a swivel eye carabiner and distal fashioned from New England Tech Cord.
With this setup the climber can slack out the lanyard even though their full weight is on the lanyard. If one of the camming tools is used the climber's weight needs to be taken off, generally by popping the hips a bit. The swivel eye acts as a slack tender and the whole works is always fair and neat.