Choosing a Tree
A Climber's Guide to Tree Inspection
Thereare many risks in trees that can be minimized if you take the time to look and be aware of dangerous possibilities. Some hazards are obvious to the naked eye, such as the lightning strike in the pine tree at right. Some present themselves as clues needing further investigation, and others can be seen only upon close inspection.
Always check a tree for its health and for potential hazards before you climb it. It doesn’t matter if you have climbed the tree many times before. Conditions change! Branches can die or partially break from a storm the night before; a tree’s roots can become dislodged by high winds. Outdoor conditions can change momentarily.
Train yourself to look with a keen eye. Always inspect your regular climbing trees in the springtime when the trees have produced new leaves. Also take a look at your trees after a severe storm.
There are four distinct assessment “zones” to look at before you climb a tree. What follows is a discussion of each to determine how and what to look for to detect potential risks in a tree.
Zone 1: The Wide Angle View
Look at the tree from a distance to get a feel for it as a whole. A tree’s lean will often be more evident from afar. Branches that are broken or split might be more readily seen, such as the crack in a major leader (right). Sometimes branch angles will look out of place or unusual. Power lines are often seen more clearly from a distance. You could very well choose not to go anywhere near a tree such as this one if you see obvious signs of danger.
Zone 3: The Ground
The ground zone includes the area around the base of the tree and three feet up the trunk. This includes the ground close to the trunk, the tree’s base, and its root flares. You may not think it is dangerous to walk up to a tree until you step on a yellow jackets’ nest in the ground, twist an ankle on a hidden hole, or walk through poison ivy. Pay attention to where you are putting your feet! Don’t get a case of “tree hypnosis” as you walk toward the tree: stop when you look up.
The ground zone can provide valuable clues to serious tree problems. Raised or cracked soil (right), especially on the side opposite a tree’s lean, can indicate a tree in the process of uprooting. Sometimes putting your head close to the ground for an “ant’s eye view” can give you a clearer perspective of ground swellings or roots heaving upwards.
Be wary if you see dead branches lying on the ground. It’s a good bet there will be more of them up in the tree. Step away from the tree and look up again. Use binoculars from a safe distance to get a closer look.
A tree is supported and held up by its root system. There are two types of roots. The supporting or anchoring roots are the most visible. They hold a tree in the ground, and serve as storage containers for sugars produced through photosynthesis. The absorbing roots are tiny root hairs that can exceed thousands of miles if the lengths were added together. Their function is to pull water and nutrients from the soil.
The presence of fungus on or near a tree trunk points to root decay and trunk rot. Stay away from a tree if you see profuse fungal (mushrooms-like) growth around the root flares or trunk of the tree. Fungus only grows on decayed wood, and is particularly serious if it is profuse. (The tree at right has a very bad case of ganoderma.) If the anchoring roots decay and rot, the tree can still appear healthy and fully clad with foliage because the tiny absorbing roots are still actively supplying the tree. However, if the anchoring roots that hold it up are no longer providing support, a gentle wind or even rainwater sitting on the leaves can cause the entire tree to topple without warning.
Look at the base of the tree and up three feet (1 meter). A tree with a cavity has lost strength. Use a stick to probe a cavity opening to get an idea of how deep it is. (Never stick your hand into a cavity because wild animals often live there and you could be bitten.) Larger cavities signal a larger strength loss. Tall trees with cavities are more dangerous than shorter trees with cavities because of the increased leverage factor wind places on them. A tree is much more dangerous if there is more than one cavity opening at its base. The presence of a cavity does not always mean the tree is unsafe, however. This depends on how extensive the cavity is, where the tree is growing, and the general overall condition of the tree.
Unusual bulges indicate a tree is trying to compensate for a loss of strength by adding layers of growth. Cracks and splits in the trunk are more serious and point to the possibility of the tree breaking.
Zone 3: The Trunk
The trunk or stem of the tree is the main supporting structure that holds up the branches.
Sometimes an excessive trunk lean can cause a tree to fall. Look behind the trunk’s lean for signs of upward heaving in the ground or air spaces between the ground and trunk. (See “Leaning Trees” below for more information.)
Absence of bark on the trunk can indicate a dead section or a fungus attack. Large areas of the trunk that do not have bark indicate a larger section of dead wood and thus increased risk of tree failure.
A long streak of missing bark coming down the trunk usually means lightning has hit the tree. Use binoculars to look into the treetop for cracked, shattered and/or broken branches.
If insects attack a tree’s trunk, you will probably see frass, fine light-colored sawdust shavings like the borer frass (left). In pine trees, the presence of “pitch tubes” resembling little balls of light colored sap about the size of a marble (right) is a sign of beetle attack. Expect to see dead branches in the crown (if not an entire dead top) if insects are present because they or their larvae often obstruct the flow of water to the treetop.
In double- or triple-trunk trees, the points where the multiple trunks connect must be inspected for weakness (ingrown bark) or storm damage. The weak connections are usually evidenced by a tight “V” shape, similar to the junction here. Look closely to see if there are any visible cracks in this area. Sometimes you’ll see an unusual ridge of wood growing down from the intersecting V connection, usually on both sides. This is a sign of an old crack under the surface (repair seam) or the tree’s effort to strengthen the weak area. It’s best not to climb in trees with these formations because they are more prone to splitting, and they will snag your throwlines. If you do climb trees with these formations, climb on the sections that are more vertical and avoid sections that lean outward. (Watch for branches that have these weak connections, as they, too, are prone to breakage.)
Zone 4: The Crown
The location and amount of dead wood in a tree can tell you much about its health, and almost every large tree has dead branches. Dead branches in the lower sections of a tree are normal and a sign of inadequate sunlight. The tree will naturally shed these. Branches dying back from the tips like on the tree at right indicate that the tree’s health is somehow compromised, though dead twigs might be too small to cause any threat to a climber. Large numbers of dead branches located high in the treetop usually tells you the tree is dying. Brown leaves or the absence of leaves (with the rest of the tree in full leaf) indicate a dead branch. The loss of bark or fungus growing on a branch also indicates a dying or dead branch.
The most obvious way to prevent risk in a tree is to remove dead or broken branches. Dead branches can be easily spotted when the tree is in full leaf. Use binoculars for a closer look as you look for broken branches. Pruning a small amount of annoying twigs that get in your way does not harm a tree.
Decay or rot pockets sometimes exist on the upper side of a branch, making them invisible to ground observation. To avoid accidental branch breakage, it’s better to climb a tree close to the trunk (trunk route) if it is a wild or unfamiliar tree rather than climbing out on branches (branch route). The weak branches need to be pruned or avoided in future climbs.
"Widow makers" are life-threatening broken branches that are hanging precariously or lodged in a tree. These branches can come crashing down with a slight wind, be shaken down while climbing, or be dislodged by a gentle touch. Climbers of wild trees must be constantly aware of these dangerous broken branches, which should be identified and avoided.
IMPORTANT! Dead branches and widow makers should be removed by the lead climber before the rest of the climbing party enters the tree. When widow makers or dead branches are being removed, it is particularly important that the lead climber, as well as those who might be even remotely near the tree on the ground, wear a helmet.
A tree with a lean may present particular challenges and benefits to a climber. Trees leaning out over water or hillsides can offer a beautiful view of the surrounding area. However, climbing dangers include the possibility of the tree uprooting or breaking under the added weight of the climber. Check for the following before climbing a leaning tree.
- The trunk base opposite the tree lean. Rake back the leaves around the trunk opposite the lean and look for air spaces between the dirt and the trunk, which can signal a tree in the process of uprooting. Fungus or decayed roots opposite the lean increases risk significantly.
- Raised soil. Inspect the ground for raised or cracked soil opposite the lean and/or broken root ends emerging from the soil. These signal a tree in an advanced stage of uprooting.
- Cracked trunk. Leaning trees often produce visible cracks produced by the tremendous weight stress. Carefully look around the first ten feet (3 meters) of the trunk. The cracks are usually obvious because of the exposed lighter colored sapwood or raised seams over older cracks.
Never climb a dead tree. This is a risk for professional tree workers, only when they have to take a dead tree down. Dead trees can topple at any time. Do not even walk under them, as they can shed branches or fall apart at any time. It's not hard to distinguish a live tree from a dead tree when foliage is present. However, during the winter months the difference is not so obvious. Here are some clues which indicate a tree which is dead or dying:
- Dead branches on the ground. Wind and rain will naturally break off dead branches. If you spot some dead branches lying on the ground, especially large ones, step away from the tree and look up. Try to locate where they came from. You can usually see where they have broken off. If you see numerous broken branch ends above you, consider the tree dangerous and unsafe. Needless to say, if you see a tree with few branches left attached to a tree, it has been dead for a considerable length of time and should not be climbed.
- Missing bark. When a tree dies, sections of bark will drop off. Sometimes a branch or only a part of the tree will die, and the bark will eventually drop off the dead section. If you see that a tree is totally devoid of bark, the tree has probably been dead for a while. Softwoods, such as pines, will lose their bark more quickly than hardwoods, and are much more unpredictable. Move away from the tree immediately!
- Discolorations on the bark. Obvious areas of discoloration, like blotches of gray, can often mean fungus attack. Don't get discoloration confused with lichen or moss growth, which is natural in humid regions.
- Absent buds. Look at the bud ends with binoculars. If the branch ends lack bud ends or they appear stunted, the tree or branch may have recently died. It may be helpful to compare the bud ends with trees of the same species living in the immediate area.
- Fungus growth. Tell-tale fungus grows only on dead and decaying wood. If it’s found on the ground, there is usually root decay. Fungus growth on the trunk signals dead or decayed wood. Branches with dead or decaying sections can also harbor fungus growth.
- The presence of leaves in the middle of winter. If you see brown leaves on a hardwood tree in the middle of winter and there are no other trees of this species with this sign, consider this tree dead. It died the previous season and the normal process of leaf fall (abscission) did not occur. Move away from the tree immediately.
|Eastern poison ivy. The
vine is very hairy.
Pacific poison oak has the
Poison ivy can occur as a ground cover or as a creeping vine in a tree. It is characterized by its compound leaf structure, divided into three leaflets. The vine stem clings closely to the tree and is covered with fine, reddish brown fibrous root hairs that appear furry when compared to other vines. The separate twigs that support the leaves often grow straight out from the trunk of the tree in a ninety degree angle up to three feet (1 meter). In the spring, poison ivy bears white, berry-like fruits which are eaten by birds but are poisonous to man. The leaves turn a bright red color in the fall before falling off. All parts of the poison ivy plant contain a volatile resin that can cause severe skin inflammation, itching and blistering. People who are hyperallergic react violently, necessitating a visit to the emergency room at a hospital due to throat and eye swelling.
Take precautions if you suspect poison ivy in the area. Put your gear on a ground tarp when you take it out. Use a rope bag during your ascent and descent to prevent rope contact with the poison ivy. Some sensitive climbers get good results from coating their skin with preventative salves prior to a climb.
If you suspect exposure, do not try to wash off poison ivy with hot water! The heat opens the skin pores and may aggravate more than help the situation. Instead, wash thoroughly using cold water as soon as possible. The effects of poison ivy can often be avoided if you wipe yourself with rubbing alcohol or other specialized solutions, which act as a solvent to remove the irritating resins, before a skin reaction occurs. Don't leave home without it!
Important: Before you venture out, always ask your climbing team if anyone is especially allergic to poison ivy. You can choose another climbing tree or have your partner prepare by wearing long sleeved shirts and taking other preventive measures.
Finally, you can spread the toxic poison ivy resin by exposure to infected articles like clothing, shoes, and climbing rope. Wash all ropes that have been exposed to poison ivy. Use a mild detergent that does not contain bleach. You could cause a severe reaction to yourself or others who may use your rope months later.
by Peter “Treeman” Jenkins
Founder of TCI and ISA-Certified Arborist
Selecting a Safe Tree
Which tree is safe for climbing? Among big trees, little trees, skinny trees and all the different varieties of trees, there are lots of choices for those with a rope and harness. Here are the most important safety factors to keep in mind when making your selection.
- The tree must be big enough to support you. The branches you loop your rope over need to be at least six inches (15 cm) in diameter. If they’re smaller than that, a branch could break when you put your weight on it. A tree with branches large enough for safe rope settings will usually be 18 inches (46 cm) in diameter or larger.
- The tree must be healthy. Leave diseased, dying, or dead trees alone. Make sure to read "A Climber's Guide to Tree Inspection" for detailed information on identifying potential hazards in and around trees.
- The tree must be safe from external hazards. Don’t ever climb a tree with power lines running through it. In addition, check for an active animal or bird nest. Hornets, bees, and wasps will not add to your climbing pleasure if they come after you; and an unhappy bird or mammal whose territory is being invaded can be very nasty indeed.
- The tree should be appropriate to your skill and comfort levels. It won’t take long to figure out that you are over your head if the first sturdy branch starts 50 feet up and your best throw with a throw line is only 30 feet high! In addition, if your height ceiling (the “fear factor”) starts at 20 feet, a tree taller than this may not be much fun until you get more accustomed to climbing.
Selecting the Right Tree
If a tree you’re considering meets the criteria above, it is more than likely an appropriate tree to climb. However, is it the tree you want to climb? The factors below will help you fine tune your choice so as to make your treetop experience the best it can be.
- Permission to climb can make or break a climbing day. It’s pretty unnerving to get up into a fine looking tree only to see a squad car pull up below you. You’ll probably be questioned about what you are doing and asked to come down. If you haven’t asked, don’t take on climbs where you obviously need permission (private land, for example), and don’t climb in areas which are designated “no-climb” zones such as the national parks in the U.S.
- Is the tree’s shape appropriate for the type of climb you’re planning? If there will more than two people in your climbing party, you’ll need a spreading tree, probably a hardwood. Conifers (pines, etc.) are suitable for only a couple of climbers at a time because all of your rope placements on their flexible branches will be next to the trunk. If you plan to set up a hammock, doing so in a conifer is impossible unless you are using a single point suspension system like a Portaledge (most hammocks need two or more suspension points).
- Where is the tree, and how easy is it to get to? Think about how long you can spend on your outing and your goals for the climb as you decide whether you want to climb in your own yard, a nearby park, or out in the woods somewhere. For example, hiking your gear to a suitable tree in the woods takes more time and preparation. Is it an easy walk on a trail, or will you have to crawl through undergrowth and cat briars to get there? Is the weather forecast okay for the length of time you’ll need? There are lots of factors to take into consideration. For some, the more complicated the day, the more fun it is. For others, a relaxing backyard climb may be just the thing.
- How much sound will there be up there? Sometimes it’s a lot noisier than you might imagine up in the treetops. You’ll probably climb above most sound-absorbing objects on the ground, so noises such as sirens, motorcycles, and trucks from far away will be audible. You’ll want to find a tree out in the country if you hunger for more natural sounds, like running water and singing birds and insects.
- What will the ambience be like around your climbing tree? Once you get past the initial thrill of being aloft, the surroundings become more important. What can you see up from in your tree? It may be very entertaining to watch what folks do as they walk or drive below you. Depending upon leaf cover, you’ll be invisible to everyone, so you can be mischievous with animal noises and such. Maybe you’re looking for a hilltop or mountainside view? If you’re a bird watcher or naturalist, will a bird’s eye view in this tree be helpful? Or are you climbing solely for some peace of mind? Folks who want a break from the busy world might choose a country rather than urban setting.
- What kind of night life do you want to experience? If you are climbing in an urban area, the lights will be bright. This is especially true if you climb near a highway or residential area or if there are no leaves on the trees in winter. Some climbers prefer their night climbs away from the city lights where they can do some serious star gazing from their hammock. Other climbers think a full moon is the way to go. Those with discerning ears might enjoy the insect sounds or owl calls in the darker hours.
You never know how a climb will turn out until you do it. However, follow our guidelines to make sure everything is in order and you’ll more than likely have a great time and a memorable experience!