How to manage a tree that is climbed often?

Any tips on managing a tree or trees that are climbed often?
I've been climbing a super large silver maple (on my land) often and have been wondering if there is anything I could do to help preserve such a nice tree for future generations.

In the process of taming the tree, I have removed all dead wood, hangers, and vines (grape and poison ivy). It appears that removing the false canopy (Vine growth) has really made the tree happy. I've seen great vigor and very healthy leaf and branch growth this year.

I would recommend some form of friction saver or cambium saver.

Any other ideas?

Should I not climb it for a while, something like a recovery period?

Should I avoid using the same tie in point over and over?

Should I mulch around the tree?

How about removing sucker branches or water sprouts?

I should mention that the tree is surrounded by a younger forest, and that the tree has never had any pruning done (other than mentioned above). It has a wonderful wide crown, for that reason I believe the tree was a lone wolf (single tree in a clearing) at one time and may have shaded a barn or house that is long gone.

If you use cambium protection you can climb the same TIP as often as you'd like.

Silver Maple produces lots of epicormic sprouts, I'd prune if they're getting in the way of regular climb routes.

Excessive epicormic growth can indicate health problems, if that situation exists you might want to have a consulting arborist take a look.

Main issue on the ground from regular climbing is soil compression in the root zone (from the trunk out to the edge of the tree's outer crown or "drip line"). Three inches deep layer of aged hardwood chips (green chips suck nitrogen out of the soil) in the areas where there there is regular climber foot traffic under the tree. Don't bank the chips against the trunk/root flare, leave 8-10 inches space.
-moss

Looks like I need to do a little mulching then.

I didn't even think of soil compression being an issue......

Also, I do have to confess, I do keep a couple throw lines in the tree on some favorite tie in points that were a little hard to get to. Any issues with this? I use them all often, I can't see them growing into the bark unless they sit unused for a couple years.

greenluck wrote:

Also, I do have to confess, I do keep a couple throw lines in the tree on some favorite tie in points that were a little hard to get to. Any issues with this? I use them all often, I can't see them growing into the bark unless they sit unused for a couple years.

I've left a 3mm haul line over a TIP in my neighborhood climbing tree for at least 3 years, no problem there. If it goes unused for a couple years the bark will start to grow around it.
-moss

I'm in the same postion, I have several trees which I climb often. Which throwlines do you guys use.
I've been using the orange tagline and have noticed that it is starting to wear the bark (oak trees). For the amount of throws I've made at each point I'm surprised. It's not much right now but the line always sits in the same area no matter how hard I try to position it elsewhere. I've never paid attention to how fast bark grows so maybe there's no issue....??

Moss, you said you have the 3mm in a tree for a few years, but I couldn't tell how often does it get used?

I like the idea of using the black throw line from NT that Baker talked about and leaving it in the tree... some days my throwing skills really stink. I'm curious what the texture of that line is. Are you there Baker? I didn't see any hanging in your trees?

I'm not close to the cambium yet so am I worring about nothing?

HUK wrote:

Moss, you said you have the 3mm in a tree for a few years, but I couldn't tell how often does it get used?

I'm using this 3/16" "task rope", very reasonable price, it holds up very well for a long term haul line:
3/16" task rope

I use the setting frequently, I'm seeing some surface "polishing" on the bark, I think that's from my conduit cambium saver being placed per climb, the cambium is not effected.

I have used the black parachute cord from New Tribe, for a long term setting it stiffens and breaks down from UV, if it's just for a few weeks no problem but if it's for months it will break on you.
-moss

1/4" yellow poly. works great for a "leave it in the tree line". It's cheap, you can get it locally, and it holds up to water, mold, mildew and sunlight well. Not the best for throwing though.......

1.7mm Zing-it is my new favorite throw line.

I agree with moss about the 3/16" task rope. I use a 1/8" version of this for many uses. Mine is a nice forrest green. Almost undetectable unless you're right on it and are looking for it. I have used it as a throw line in the past, in a pinch. But know that this is not very user friendly with all trees. It will hang up in the bark of black cherry's, white oaks, anything shaggy. I got a 200' spool of it at my local camping supply store.

My usual throw line is the 1.75 Zing-It. Love it.

That's why I like the 3/16", it doesn't get hung up in bark. I never try using it for throwline, it's primarily for use as a haul line for a limited number of settings in local trees where I climb frequently. I always have 25 ft. of it in my backpack to hold back small understory branches to create a clear path for throwing etc. I also use it to create small prusiks for carrying conduit cambium savers on my harness etc. That size cord always comes in handy for something.
-moss

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. Moss, double thanks for including the link for the line - makes it easy on me.
Looks good, I think I'll be ordering the 3/16.
Take care everyone and happy climbing.

My two bits on this:

Make an access trail to your tree and stay on it.

Keep off the soils at the base of the tree soil "compaction" is the issue. Remarkably easy to change soil characteristics...even just with foot traffic.

Create a natural "deck" over the soil to use for gear set up & climber launch spot. In some places a real deck section (no footings) would work very well.

Don't clear understory plants if you don't have to and preserve what you can. These are especially in natural setting likely to be important tree Associates.

Mulch with chips from tree species that are similar to canopy near your tree.

Don't worry about use of "green" chips for mulch. You will not deplete N in any significant way. (Sorry Moss... common myth) Keep added mulch away from trunk. I suggest not using commercial "mulch products". Use arborist chips.

If tree is in a residential setting ...if possible...do not clean up under the tree. That stuff that gets blown or raked up and shipped off site is the best mulch and the eventual soil for your tree...yes the trees make their own mulch and soil!

Set semi-permanent tips and leave strings. I use steel cables with small eyes at the ends. Use string to keep in place for string and rope pulling.

Don't let the tree envelop anything that you leave in the tree.

Bark polishing does not appear to do much harm if there is a layer left before cambium layers.

For very heavy or commercial use consider semi- permanent platform in the tree (no drilling or nails please!). Garnier at Out n About has these now for sale I think.

My two bits on this:

Make an access trail to your tree and stay on it.

Keep off the soils at the base of the tree soil "compaction" is the issue. Remarkably easy to change soil characteristics...even just with foot traffic.

Create a natural "deck" over the soil to use for gear set up & climber launch spot. In some places a real deck section (no footings) would work very well.

Don't clear understory plants if you don't have to and preserve what you can. These are especially in natural setting likely to be important tree Associates.

Mulch with chips from tree species that are similar to canopy near your tree.

Don't worry about use of "green" chips for mulch. You will not deplete N in any significant way. (Sorry Moss... common myth) Keep added mulch away from trunk. I suggest not using commercial "mulch products". Use arborist chips.

If tree is in a residential setting ...if possible...do not clean up under the tree. That stuff that gets blown or raked up and shipped off site is the best mulch and the eventual soil for your tree...yes the trees make their own mulch and soil!

Set semi-permanent tips and leave strings. I use steel cables with small eyes at the ends. Use string to keep in place for string and rope pulling.

Don't let the tree envelop anything that you leave in the tree.

Bark polishing does not appear to do much harm if there is a layer left before cambium layers.

For very heavy or commercial use consider semi- permanent platform in the tree (no drilling or nails please!). Garnier at Out n About has these now for sale I think.

scottdb wrote:

Don't worry about use of "green" chips for mulch. You will not deplete N in any significant way. (Sorry Moss... common myth) Keep added mulch away from trunk. I suggest not using commercial "mulch products". Use arborist chips.

That's great info, thanks! I love it when wrong practices/beliefs are debunked. In other words, no apology needed.
-moss

Greenluck- I agree with all that has been said here (even about the thumbs up on the green chips)...

But could I clarify one thing? You said you use it often.

How often is "often?"

This might all be moot. If you are climbing it twice a month and you are the only visitor the tree sees- it's probably happy you are there breaking dead branches and knocking them to the ground.

If you are climbing it twice a week, bringing friends and parking vehicles next to that, well that's a whole nother story.

Get some cambium savers! (I wonder if leather could be left in the tree long term)

love
nick

nickfromwi wrote:

How often is "often?"

1 climber / 1-3 times a week

The tree is located in a wooded area with a natural setting of younger trees.