Review Detail

 
Carabiners
Overall rating 
 
5.0
Type of Use 
 
4.0
Frequency of Use 
 
4.0
Durability 
 
5.0
Ease of Use 
 
5.0
Safety 
 
5.0
Strength 
 
5.0

Petzl - Am'D TriAct

I have a matched set of these in a kind of coppery color and they look and perform beautifully. I have noticed the "sharp" edge on the locking collar and for this reason I don't use them in applications where your supports regularly become slack enough to drape down and catch, like with a Texas clmibing system.



I was pretty surprised to read these reviews and find that no one mentioned the primary reason to opt for this style 'biner - the non-snag "nose". I guess most of us take this for granted, but for those newbies not familiar, many carabiners fall into the "wire gate" category. This means that the "nose" of the carabiner has a notch to catch the wire. I only know of one wire-gate carabiner that doesn't have this notch. So when a wire-gate 'biner is opened, that ragged notch will snag nearly everything possible (besides the wire it's meant for) when detaching from your saddle or your current configuration. Not the end of the world, but bad enough so I created a separate place on my harness for all non-snag biners. If I'm in a particularly tough predicament, I don't want to have further frustration.



I strongly recommend "smooth" carabiners to every climber, especially these. I have not had any of the problems described in the other reviews, but of course debris jamming can happen to any device.



One particular application is with an eye to eye prusik, which I use frequently because of the friction knots I choose. The smooth end slides in and out of the small splices quickly, with no hanging up or wear on the spliced eye.



I have to qualify my rating on "Type of Use" by saying that some certified arborists to whom I have spoken only use steel 'biners. In my opinion I feel this is a totally versatile piece of gear, to be used in all normal life support situations. But since some tree service companies require their personnel to "stick with steel", I give it a 4.



"Frequency of Use" a 4, only because I have so many frickin' carabiners, I like to rotate thru them and experiment.



I find the action easy and the shape ergonomic enough to be opened easily with either hand, although in the winter insulated gloves make it tricky. Even young people with smaller hands should be able to do it once they have experience. (Not so with the "William", which is very wide and you need big hands to do it one handed without struggling.)



I have tested this carabiner by hanging on it and then operating the gate to see whether or not there is any appreciable flex that distorts opening/closing under load. My full gear and I weigh about 180lbs (not including chainsaw) and there is no discernable distortion of normal operation under that load. I have tested other 'biners and this is not always the case.



Once every couple of years I wash them in soapy water, blow them dry with compressed air and then hit them with either WD40 or Remington light machine oil. Beauty mate!

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